Removing the boscage rotor ( slice)
Still, follow this procedure, If you are replacing your boscage rotors as well. Now that the caliper is removed, its time to remove the boscage rotor. First, you need to remove the caliper type. This is what the caliper was resting on and is also where you preliminarily revolved the caliper companion bolts. The type is connected via two bolts. You need to use your swell bar and the applicable socket to remove it.
Once the type is remove, its time to remove the boscage rotor ( slice). The rotor is held in place by either one or two hold down bolts. These bolts will be comparatively lower than the others and may bear the use of your Allen wrench. Support the boscage rotor as you loosen the bolts. Remove the bolts. However, you may need to use a rubber mallet and hammer it from the reverse to loosen it, If the rotor doesn’t come off. Erosion between the rotor and wheel mecca may have caused it to seize.
Reinstalling the boscage rotor
You will reinstall the rotor in the rear order. To help the rotor from seizing to the wheel mecca, apply a thin sub caste of anti-seize emulsion to the wheel mecca before putting the boscage rotor back on. I would also put a little anti-seize emulsion on the vestments of the rotor hold-down bolt. Strain all bolts using your necklace wrench set at the applicable setting.
Apply a thin sub caste of anti-seize emulsion to the vestments of the caliper type bolts as well. Be careful not to get any on the face of the rotor. Following these way will make your coming boscage rotor change a breath.
Installing new boscage pads
Note Some anti-squeal emulsion type bear curing for at least six hours before installing the pads on the vehicle. Read the instructions on the product to determine whether you should apply it to the reverse of the new pads on the night ahead.
First, apply the anti-squeal emulsion to the reverse of the pads, not to the face that comes in contact with the rotors. Remove the bungee cord and support the caliper. Next, precisely install the pads into the boscage caliper. The two pads should differ in appearance and fit so you should not get confused as to which fits where. However, precisely install the line in the pad, If your vehicle is equipped with boscage pad detector cables.
Install the Brake Pads over the top of the boscage rotor. Be sure to seat the boscage pads into the notches of the caliper type. Align the holes in the caliper with the holes in the caliper type. Apply a thin sub caste of boscage corridor grease to the caliper companion bolts and slide them in. Strain the bolts using your necklace wrench at the applicable setting. You can find the bolt necklace settings in your service primer, proprietor’s primer, and of course the internet. Your original bus corridor store will be helpful as well. Reinstall the caliper companion bolt caps to keep the boscage dust out.
Reinstall the anti-rattle clip (if applicable) using your large screwdriver. This will take a little tolerance and for me, this one step took the utmost time. Persevere.
Once you’ve completed pad change, you can reinstall each wheel.
The coming step is to break the boscage pads in. This procedure is also called” coverlet “the thickets. You can find lots of information about this procedure on the internet. Principally, it involves making a series of stops from 55 mph while applying further boscage pedal pressure with each consecutive stop. Five to ten stops is generally all that’s necessary.
Performing your own boscage job isn’t delicate and the savings can be huge! Not to mention the confidence boost you will get. I know you can do it. I’ve confidence in your capacities. Tell those service directors “I will handle it”, coming time they try to separate you from your cash. I sure did and you’ll too!